Fashion in Nineteenth-Century France
France has been widely known for being one of the most predominant fashion capitals of the world. French fashion has become well known and imitated for hundreds of years. The rise of haute couture in Paris during the nineteenth century became one of France's most influential time periods. Some of the more recent influential French designers who followed the nineteenth century include Gabrille Bonheur ‘Coco’ Chanel, Hubert de Givenchy, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Louis Vuitton. Even before these revolutionary designers, there were fashion designers, dress makers, and fashion houses that would pave the way for those currently most widely known designers.
The trends and styles of the nineteenth century started in 1795, when incorporating lace into dresses and accessorizing with brooches became the norm. Specifically between the years 1795-1820, saw a rise of these two new informal trends, that in contrast to earlier trends and trends that occurred after, were extremely different from one another. During this time period the clothes that women were wearing became tighter in the bodice area and showcased a large skirt. The trend also included a short fitted waist, which accentuated the fuller skirts that kept growing. There were trends of white fabric paired with tulle or transparent muslin. The evening gowns became trimmed down in size and were also now adorned with ribbons and lace. The trend of ribbons were everywhere, ribbons would be placed on sleeves, bodices, skirts, and often were showcased on an entire dress. Many of the trends were also paired with short sleeves and a much lower cut bodice. During the 1800’s, short hair was a trend for women. As for accessories, women very often wore white hats that could have been adorned with lace and feathers. It was also crucial to wear a shawl with a women's outfit.
During the 1810’s, the fashions became softer in terms of silhouette, fabric, and accessories. In this specific decade during the nineteenth century, the waist was raised in the back and the bodice became shorter and single breasted.
The 1820’s saw the waist drop once again, most likely due to the now extensive details on the neckline and hem of dresses. This is also a time period when a cone shaped skirt and cone shaped sleeves becomes extremely popular again.
During the later part of the nineteenth century, France saw major amounts of silk used in ball gowns, and a rise in intricate beading.
Jewelry during the end of the nineteenth century featured unique imagery and iconography of creatures such as frogs, cherubs, and floral motifs. For the upper classes, gold and rose gold jewelry were extremely popular. The jewelry most always was decorated with at least one type of precious stone, if not more.
When it came to shoes of the nineteenth century, there was a large presence of silk pumps. Shoes during the end of the nineteenth century often feature intricate embroidery detailing as well as sometimes bows and tassels.
While black, white, and other neutral colors have always been present during the nineteenth century, there were also many designers creating extremely colorful gowns and designs. Light pinks were very popular especially towards the end of the nineteenth century. There was also a significant amount of teal and light blues present in the trends of the nineteenth century.
The middle and end of the nineteenth century also had many designers creating designs with unique patterned fabric. While often the actual fabric had been printed with a pattern, the end of the nineteenth century was also noted to have a large presence of velvet, beaded, rhinestones, and stitched patterns on the fabric of especially dresses.
Many of the trends during the middle and end of the nineteenth century were made even more popular by women of the upper class and of the French royal court. Especially towards the end of the nineteenth century, there was an American obsession surrounding French haute couture trends. The new rich, nouveau riche, of America preferred the trends and designs of France to their American ones. American women were well known for traveling to Paris and purchasing as much French designer clothing their suitcases could carry.
Charles Frederick Worth has been noted as being one of the most influential fashion designers of the nineteenth century, alongside Emile Pingat. Much of Worth’s work was considered extravagant and perfect for the royal court. His designs perfectly encapsulate the way his personality is said to have been, extremely colorful, outgoing, and eccentric. Charles Frederick Worth liked to create the classic and simple silhouette of a skirt with very bold colors and patterns that are seen in many of his designs that survive today. While Worth did work with color quite regularly, there are beautiful examples of his use of black, white, beige/tan, and light pink. Each one of his designs feature unique sleeves and bodices. Worth has also been known to use floral patterns and flower motifs in his work. Charles Frederick Worth’s designs have prominent use of organic patterns that don’t appear as stiff. As Charles Frederick Worth began to step down and eventually retire, his son Jean-Philippe Worth became the designer for the House of Worth. Jean-Philippe followed in his fathers footsteps with bold color and pattern choices. Jean-Philippe as a simplistic detail to his designs however, they appear much more sleek and classy. His designs show clean, smooth lines and silhouettes that pair nicely with the bold color and pattern choices.
The nineteenth century saw the rise and fall of many trends. Many French designers attempted to make history in haute couture, and many of their designs survive today in museums. The fashions and trends of the nineteenth century affected the early twentieth centuries fashions tremendously. While during Worth’s time there was a slight trend in beaded detailing, by the time his son Jean-Philippe Worth was exclusively designing, beads had become even more prevalent during the 1910’s and 1920’s. Each new trend affects the next generation, and each new generation affects the next trend.